Earth Shiners January 2023

Winter Around The World

Winter Weather

Written by: Rashawn Merchant

This winter, weather forecasts have been some of the most extreme the world has seen. Many places received conditions much more significant than expected and had little to no way of defending themselves against it. Many Americans can point to the late December blizzards that put most of the country on hold.

This storm stretched from the Mexican border to Canada and then the Northeastern United States. Millions of Americans were placed under severe weather advisories by the National Weather Service. President Joe Biden firmly described it as serious stuff.

Snow blankets in Buffalo Joed Viera/AFP/Getty Images

Serious it was indeed. The blizzard broke utility infrastructure and closed roads, leading to more than 50 deaths over a two-week period. Notably, Buffalo, New York was hit the hardest. Roughly 30 of the storm deaths came from New York’s Erie County. Many people succumbed to the freezing conditions, having been trapped in their homes and through traffic incidents. Those inside poorly made structures were impacted the most due to insufficient heating and gas leaks. As the storm grew, it affected thousands of travelers preparing for the holiday season. According to FlightAware, 1,200 flights were canceled, with close to 1,000 delayed. The effects of these flight cancellations are still felt as Southwest Airlines faced scrutiny by the Department of Transportation due to mismanagement.

The East Coast was not alone this winter as the Western United States also faced drastic weather. In a rare event, the Pacific Coast faced wild rain events. Northern California received rainfall, with heavy downpours and snowfall touching the mountains. A more minor wave of rain then traveled down to Southern California but contributed to landslides and flash flooding.

Lastly, several European countries saw record-breaking warm weather as the New Year rolled in. Temperatures from France to Russia reached well above 10 to 20 degrees Celsius (18 to 36 degrees Fahrenheit), breaking seasonal records by quite a lot. Meteorologist Nahel Belgherze indicated that the temperatures were “…exactly the kind of very abnormal event that is progressively rewriting global climatology.” Hopefully as the season settles out, we will see more stable conditions.

Fashion Forward

Written by: Alejandro Pineda Catalan

From expensive designs with runway shows to casual brands like Nike and Adidas, fashion has always been a trending topic. We’ve even seen iconic sitcoms with stars like “Fran Fine,” who’ve held the most fashionable of personas. Such events, entertainment, and more have allowed millions of people to see and desire a specific look. Along with that, we’ve seen various types of clothing produced. On one hand, there are clothes made from high-quality natural fabrics, while others are mass-produced with synthetic and cheaper materials. 

The fast fashion era has caused significant environmental issues due to overflowing landfills, water pollution, and expansive carbon emissions from production. Fast fashion is a term associated with the mass production of clothing made at cheaper cost. This leads to harmful effects on the environment and on the people who live near waste sites. 

Underdeveloped countries are often the victims to which these clothing articles tend to linger. The synthetic materials used take longer to dispose of than natural fabrics. Other times, the same countries end up with excess greenhouse carbon emissions since labor is cheaper in these areas. The combination of cheap work and overproduction in the clothing industry wreaks havoc on those in poverty while further enriching those at the top of the supply chain. This causes dangerous effects and that’s before mentioning the unsafe working conditions. 

Thrifted clothing stockpiles from GablesPlace
Alejandro Pineda Catalan/Earth Shiners

As waste not only occurs on land, it also finds its way into our water systems. Studies have shown that over half a million tonnes of microplastics are polluting the seas yearly. The Ocean Blue Environmental News Blog states that exposure to these microplastics can be cancerous to sea life. In addition, Chelsea Rochman’s research has also found that humans incur exposure to these plastics, with them being found in the wild fish caught, processed, and sold in our grocery stores.

Of course, the question arises of what changes are needed to combat the trend of fast fashion and its negative impact. There are many alternatives to being eco-friendly when it comes to style. There has been an inclination towards thrift shopping, upcycling, and an attraction to higher quality clothing. These alternatives have already created essential changes in the fashion industry. For example, there’s been an uptake in vintage clothing in the last decade, and many garments tend to be made of excellent quality. 

Thrifting has become a trend, a hobby, and a career for individuals who have a passion for vintage fashion. Many become collectors and can resell clothes from the past decades. Younger generations have become more attracted to this type of fashion and its benefits on the environment. Like the global brands holding popular fashion events, thrift collectors have been striding to open shops and host conventions to display and sell their collections to local communities. 

Small changes such as taking better care of your clothes, donating, and being mindful of how often you wash your clothes help the environment. Supporting ethical brands can also assist the trend of buying higher-quality pieces. While smaller, more tuned-in brands are helping fight against fast fashion, global giants are also taking positions in supporting this fight.  

Companies like Nike are now implementing recycled materials into their footwear and making clothes that increase sustainability. Their new line, “Forward,” will produce 75% less carbon emission and less manual labor. Levi is also participating in this movement as they are reusing denim to make new products. They have also been committed to less water use during their production process. This isn’t to say brands like this are saving us from harmful practices, but to point out how brands are attempting change. 

Thrift conventions give local sellers a chance at breaking into the market
6figurebam/Instagram

Scraping the surface of this topic can lead us to be more conscious of our habits and which clothing brands we support. You can help by finding different solutions and enjoying the process. Think twice before falling victim to the trends here today and gone tomorrow. Support local brands or make your own custom pieces. Creativity has always been a tool to resolve issues, so think outside the box regarding what you wear and how it impacts the environment and people around you.  

New Year, New Energy

Written by: Rashawn Merchant

With the recent reporting of the Biden Administration’s plan to phase out fluorescent light bulbs, it’s now an excellent time to consider additional energy changes for the year. Energy emissions comprise the biggest contribution to the greenhouse gas effect, and it’s in our best interest to phase out inefficient carbon systems. Ones that rely on renewable energy would be much more beneficial than previous models. Cleaner energy is better for the planet and can help customers save money in the long run. As money is on most of our minds, it’d be a great way to accomplish two goals. 

The Department of Energy proposed increasing the efficiency of all light bulbs produced and distributed in the United States. The current standard for bulbs is 45 lumens per watt, and the increase would double it to above 120 lumens per wattage. LEDs are highly efficient and, with Energy Star ratings, can use at least 75% less energy and can last up to 25 times longer than incandescent lighting, according to the Department of Energy.

In addition, as we prepare for the upcoming spring season, it’ll be best to find alternative ways to control the heating and cooling of your home. Often times we let our thermostats run rampant, but with close monitoring, you can reduce your home’s energy demand. The DOE recommends setting your thermostat back by 7-10 degrees Fahrenheit for about 8 hours a day. Lisa Smith at Investopedia suggests reducing the difference between indoor and outdoor temperatures so you can reduce energy loss. Indoor fans are an excellent supplement when you only need temperature adjustments in specific home parts. That way, you aren’t blowing excess air into spaces not being occupied.

LED lightbulbs last longer and save money
Rashawn Merchant/Earth Shiners

Energy usage changes do not have to be confined to just your home. Whether for leisure or work, transportation is a vital part of everyone’s life. According to the Kansas City Area Transportation Authority, approximately 85 percent of greenhouse gas emissions from the transportation sector are related to surface roadways. This means that family cars are the bulk of the added harm we cause to the planet. Public transportation is a great way to conserve energy and save money on costly fuel expenses. By stopping the use of just one car during a 20-mile commute, more than 48,000 pounds of CO2 emissions can be saved annually. Imagine that number multiplied by the millions of daily commuters who often take a long journey to and from work each day. It’s important to note that many cities aren’t well equipped with public transportation options. In cities like Atlanta and Los Angeles, train stops occur based on miles compared to New York, with stations within hundreds of feet of each other. Public transportation will have to be advocated for, especially against anti-spending initiatives. The benefits would certainly be worth it. 

Trouble in Paradise

The importance of doing research before a trip

And what I’ve learned…

Written by: Rashawn Merchant

I was excited to embark on my first international solo adventure this January. After much thinking and the spiritual confidence to proceed, I decided to visit Egypt. As an African American, I’ve long experienced the interconnections between Black culture in America and its ties to ancient Egypt. It doesn’t take long before walking down Harlem’s 125th street and seeing an assortment of shirts with displays of Pharaohs or the mentioning of kingliness in which Black men should represent themselves. One of my favorite references is hearing the reasons why Black Americans, especially within hip-hop culture, wear an abundance of jewelry because our African ancestors did. As an explorer of the world, it was easy for me to appreciate the historical influences. Egypt arguably contains the world’s greatest wonder through the Great Pyramids of Giza. I bought a plane ticket, and without a second thought, I was ready to go.

Peter O’Toole as T.E Lawrence
David Lean/Columbia Pictures

When traveling with others in the past, I always made an itinerary of the things I wanted to experience. For an unknown reason (maybe faith), I decided against it this time. I was going on a trip through pure intuition and wanted to take it one step at a time. In making this decision, I did no research. Actually, that isn’t true. I watched the movie Lawrence of Arabia. A 1962 movie about a British military leader who took part in escapades throughout the Arabian Peninsula. The film won seven Oscar awards, including Best Picture, due to its showcasing of T.E. Lawrence’s dramatic and captivating experience in Arabia. The movie shows Lawrence’s heralding as both a hero and a villain to a land he was unfamiliar with. His heroism is displayed beautifully as many of the Arabs accept him as an outsider and seemingly praise him as a foreigner. Further into the movie, we see that Lawrence’s disconnect becomes his ultimate demise as the pressure of solving conflict between unknown cultures becomes too great for him to handle. I, of course, only focused on the former.

I expected my time in Egypt to be reminiscent of luxury. While I was grateful to be in such a beautiful region, I truthfully faced hardship along the way. When I boarded the airplane at John F. Kennedy Airport, I noticed I was the only African-American on the flight. During the 10-hour trip, I chose not to wear headphones or distract myself too much with entertainment. I wanted to sit with my thoughts and consider what I’d be embarking on. Being in another country alone meant there was a sense of isolation. I realized that every encounter, experience, and engagement would be mine and mine alone. At this point, there was no turning back.

Queen Nefertiti’s Tomb
Rashawn Merchant/Earth Shiners

While in Cairo, I spent time exploring museums and visiting popular locations within the city. My favorite was by far the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities. On my first day, it was a great introduction to learning the vast significance of Ancient Egypt in depth. I laughed with one of my cousins because I said that after seeing so many eloquent and beautifully decorated tombs, I wanted nothing less for myself. The Ancient Egyptians deeply respected their dead and wanted to ensure their souls could live forever. I couldn’t help but think about my own life and the considerations I should take in better caring for my present body. 

During museum excursions are when I had the most interactions with locals. The one thing that always happened was their ability to identify that I was American. It was as if they could smell it on me. Interestingly, I wore my Egyptian Amber cologne, which I bought in Harlem a few years ago. People were primarily interested when I confirmed that I was American, but it also opened a gate for them to begin offering me things. During these moments, I learned that absolutely nothing in this world is free. Egyptians are masterful hustlers. If there was an opportunity to make money at any point in time, they would take it. Honestly, I respected it but realized it could be a lot for someone with little tolerance for dealing with people. It’s best not to feel offended when being haggled with. Try to maintain your composure so that you aren’t dealing with additional stress along your trip.

Egyptian open-air market
Rashawn Merchant/Earth Shiners

In America, it’d be easy to assume someone was just being nice. I realized that in less fortunate countries, people are not granted this favor. Time is money, and at every moment, people must do what is needed to make the most of it. I couldn’t help but think about Black America in relation to this. As people who struggle significantly more economically than our counterparts, we should take more opportunities to profit from our experiences and likeliness. Far too often, we do not have the economic conditions to show for it. It would be beneficial to have more ownership of our work and intellectual property. 

The Great Pyramids of Giza
Rashawn Merchant/Earth Shiners

My favorite part of the trip was visiting the Great Pyramids of Giza. Walking through the Giza Necropolis felt like I was inside a postcard. The pyramids (Khufu, Khafre, and Mankaure) were grand and serene. It represented much of what Egypt signified, a peaceful land with a drive toward power and success. It made me wish to help not only mine but all people struggling to achieve the same across the world.

In the Midst of Gentrification

Written by: Rashawn Merchant 

Harlem, New York. A centralized location for Black people in America has become a marker for gentrification’s complications. For over a century, Harlem has distinctly been home to generations of Black residents through both good and bad. As an entertainment hub, many relate Harlem to its renaissance movement, which sparked an upsurge in musical, literary, and cultural influences. In parallel, Harlem has been plagued by low income and high crime during the same period. The neighborhood has struggled to be free from this vicious cycle and gentrification has begun to take hold.

Local church signage depicting feelings toward gentrification
Rashawn Merchant/Earth Shiners

Being in Harlem for more than 20 years, I’ve seen the effects of gentrification. Much of the newer generations and younger adults who should be well able to afford an apartment do not have the means. Many still live with their parents because they do not want to leave the neighborhood. Those fortunate enough to move on their own have difficulty reaching financial goals due to the amount spent on rent. 40% of people in the U.S. struggle to afford rent payments, as 30% of their income goes towards housing costs. That number continues to rise, and it seemscolonial that people with long-standing attachments to Harlem move due to external factors. 

As Black culture stamped itself as one of the world’s most influential forces, many from other cultural backgrounds have been able to participate in it. It’s easy to identify this when seeing the millions of TikTok videos with people dancing to songs by Black artists. I fully agree that it should happen as well. As we all live on this beautiful planet, cultures are for everyone’s enjoyment and experience. It’s how we, as humans, can learn from each other and avoid ignorance. The problem occurs when taking part in someone else’s culture becomes exploitative. Due to the pandemic, real estate soared to extreme heights, to which every American has succumbed. Prices hit New York City hard, and as of January 2023, Apartmentlist.com states the median rental price in the city stands at $2,039, which is a 3.9% year-to-year increase. With rising inflation, apartment prices increased, and many living in Manhattan’s middle and lower ends became forced to move elsewhere. Harlem became a prime location.

Many associate Columbia’s Manhattanville Campus with the increase in prices around the area
Rashawn Merchant/Earth Shiners

Much of the trendy appeals of Black culture, now spread throughout the internet, made Harlem a target zone for people to migrate. Historically, while Harlem has always had lower rental prices than the rest of Manhattan, many were still turned off from uptown because of taboos between Black and White residents in the city. We can see this clearly when looking at the divide when crossing to and from Central Park. However, prices have become so extreme that many residents looked to Harlem as a rest haven. The influx of new residents has put current Harlem residents in grave condition. Many Harlemites were already struggling to afford rent prices; however, it was worth it because of the opportunity to be around family and friends. Wouldn’t we all want to be near those closest to us? Unfortunately, real estate developers see interested residents come from wealthier neighborhoods, and they know they can charge a premium because an increased price in Harlem is still more affordable than the areas these migrants came from. This is how long-standing residents end up having to relocate.

The Whole Foods Market on Harlem’s 125th street is one of the several indications of increased gentrification
Rashawn Merchant/Earth Shiners

Poverty and low education rates prevent people from gaining better job opportunities for increased income. Harlem has gone through several decades of epidemic societal issues, and many of the residents never had a chance at home ownership or to provide stability for their children to maintain the living conditions needed to sustain themselves in the area. Lastly, there needed to be more government assistance from which many wealthier neighborhoods benefitted, and Harlem never received. Even with the current, more progressive initiatives and policies, it came too late for people to have a chance at staying. Additional rental assistance programs for sustainable apartments would’ve significantly improved conditions. 

In this modern age, people have begun integrating faster than ever. Every cultural group should have the opportunity to stay within themselves, and Harlem residents deserve the same. 

January product of the Month

Written by: Rashawn Merchant

Following sustainable fashion, this month’s product focuses on a brand that utilizes thrifted and damaged clothes to rework them into beautifully upcycled pieces. Defective Garment’s collaboration with Nike’s Re-Creation Program is part of an initiative that advances the goal of zero waste in the clothing industry. Zac Cabrera is the founder of Defective Garments, an online thrift store in which he sells custom clothing. Zac repairs the clothes through a cut-and-sewn process integrated with other fabric or clothing items. Each piece is a one-of-one, so there’s always a new creative perspective when bringing the items back to life. Nike connected with Cabrera and released a collection full of brightly-colored high-quality sportswear garments. This collection will be available this month and will surely be a fashion lover’s dream.

Thanks for Reading!

Earthshiners@earthshinersmagazine.com

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